Pesky Pests & Happy Plants: A Survival Guide
We all want our plants to live their best, thriving, pest-free lives. But no matter how much attention (or sheer neglect) you give them, unwanted critters sometimes show up uninvited—kind of like that one distant relative who never takes the hint.
Whether you're new to the plant scene or you’ve turned your home into a full-fledged jungle, knowing how to identify, prevent, and kick out plant pests is essential. This guide covers the basics of specific household pests, what to look for, how to stop an infestation before it starts, and how to keep your plants from becoming an all-you-can-eat buffet for bugs.
Keeping Plants Thriving (and Pests Miserable)
Want your plants strong enough to fight off pests like tiny warriors? It’s all about giving them the right conditions so they don’t turn into easy targets.
Pick the Right Plant for the Job
Plants can’t tough it out in conditions they hate. Too little light, soggy soil, bone-dry air—any of these can send your plant into a slow decline, making it the perfect target for pests. Pick plants that match your space, and you’re already ahead of the game.
Watering: Less Guesswork, More Success
- Figure out how much water your plant actually needs—blindly guessing usually leads to root rot or crispy leaves, neither of which are ideal.
- Always water at the soil, to prevent water sitting and growing mold.
- Make sure your pot drains well—because standing water is basically an open invitation for pests and plant failure.
Overwatering is how you get fungus gnats. And once you have them, you’ll regret every life choice that led to that moment.
Struggle with watering? Check out Moisture Meters
Does Misting Help?
Yes, misting can help keep pests at bay, but it’s not a one-and-done solution. It does a few things that might make your life (and your plants’ lives) easier:
- Washes away bugs – A fine mist can knock off tiny pests before they have time to settle in and start causing chaos.
- Removes dust – Dusty leaves block light, and since plants literally survive on light, keeping them clean is a no-brainer.
- Helps you spot problems early – Getting up close while misting means you're more likely to notice pests before they turn into a full-blown infestation.
How to Mist the Right Way
Because, yes, there is a wrong way.
- Use tepid water (shocking your plant with ice-cold mist isn't helpful).
- Mist both the tops and undersides of the leaves (pests love hiding underneath). Then gently wipe the leaves to get rid of the pests.
- Mist in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall—nobody wants lingering moisture leading to mold.
- Our Fave Mister.
If you want to dig into the specifics of misting, check out our blog post about misting and humidity.
Other Ways to Prevent Pests
- Spray spider mites off with water every 5-7 days (because they don’t give up easily).
- Move plants away from heating vents—blasting them with dry air weakens their defenses.
- Group plants together to increase humidity naturally. But if there is a pest problem don't group them close to prevent the pests from spreading easily.
- Use pebble trays underneath plant pots to add moisture to the air.
- Run a humidifier nearby, especially in dry climates.
- Feeling extra? Release ladybugs indoors on an infected plant at night—tiny heroes doing the dirty work for you.
Feed It, But Don’t Overdo It
- Only fertilize when the plant is actively growing. If it’s just sitting there doing nothing, forcing it to eat isn’t going to help.
Keep Things Clean
- Wipe those leaves down—dust blocks light, and plants kind of need that to survive.
- No weird hacks. That means no leaf shine, no milk, no DIY concoctions that sound more like a science experiment than plant care. Not saying that all recommendations are bad, BUT you could be doing more harm than good.
- Prune the dead stuff. If it’s brown and sad, it’s got to go.
Soil & Potting 101
- New plants = new soil. Don’t recycle old mystery dirt.
- Use fresh, sterile potting mix—especially if that old bag of soil has been sitting open outside collecting who-knows-what.
- Clean pots matter. Your plant deserves better than being stuffed into a crusty, old container.
A little care goes a long way in stopping pest problems before they start. Give your plants what they need, and they’ll stay strong, healthy, and—most importantly—pest-free. But let’s be real—sometimes, despite your best efforts, the bugs still show up (rude).
So, what exactly are you up against? Let’s dig into the specific pests that love houseplants, what they look like, and—most importantly—how to send them packing. keep reading, because we’re about to expose these freeloaders and show you exactly how to reclaim your jungle.
1. Aphids: The Tiny Green Menace (And Its Many Varieties)
What They Look Like: Aphids are typically small, soft-bodied insects that vary in color, from green and yellow to black, brown, or even red. These pests are generally about 1-2 mm long and are often found in large clusters on new growth, such as tender leaves, buds, or flowers.
How to Diagnose: Aphids excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which may coat the leaves, stems, and surrounding areas. This substance can attract ants or lead to the development of sooty mold, which can further damage your plant. Aphids also cause leaf curling, yellowing, or stunted growth as they suck plant sap.
Why It’s Important to Act: While aphids are tiny, they can cause significant damage to your plants by weakening them, distorting growth, and transmitting harmful viruses. Some species are particularly adept at spreading plant diseases.
Different Types of Aphids:
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Greenfly or Green Aphid (Aphis spp.): These are one of the most common types and are typically green in color. They tend to gather in large numbers on new leaves, flower buds, or shoots, particularly during the spring and summer months.
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Black Bean Aphid (Aphis fabae): This aphid is darker in color, usually black, and targets plants like beans, peas, and other legumes. Though it’s more common outdoors, it can still be found on indoor plants that attract legumes.
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Cotton Aphid (Aphis gossypii): The cotton aphid is often yellow or light green and can spread quickly on a wide variety of plants, including houseplants, vegetables, and flowers. It is especially problematic on ornamental plants like hibiscus and geraniums.
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Potato Aphid (Macrosiphum euphorbiae): This aphid tends to be more reddish or pinkish in color and is commonly found on potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers, although it can also affect houseplants. It is known to transmit potato leaf roll virus.
Prevention: To keep aphids at bay, maintain strong plant health by ensuring that plants are properly watered, not overcrowded, and well-ventilated. Aphids thrive in environments with new, tender growth, so try to keep plants in the proper growing conditions for their species. Inspect new plants carefully before bringing them indoors, as aphids often hitch a ride on new arrivals.
How to Get Rid of Them:
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Insecticidal soap:
Aphids are annoying, but they don’t stand a chance with insecticidal soap—you just need to be consistent. Apply it weekly for 2–3 weeks, and if those little pests are extra stubborn, reapply every 4–7 days until they’re completely gone.
How to Use It:
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Check the label—every soap has its own rules. Some are ready to go, while others need mixing.
Coat both sides of the leaves, making sure to hit every nook and cranny. Early mornings or late evenings are the best times to spray.
The next morning, rinse your plant thoroughly to wash off any residue and keep it looking fresh.
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Why Multiple Applications?
Insecticidal soap only works on contact, meaning if you miss a few aphids, they’ll keep the party going. Regular reapplication helps make sure they’re all evicted.
Pro Tips:
- Avoid spraying on hot, sunny days—it can scorch your plant.
- Test on a small section first before going all in. Some plants are more sensitive than others.
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Follow the label. More soap doesn’t mean more dead aphids—it just means a stressed-out plant.
Other Ways to Get Rid of Aphids:
- Blast them off with water.Use a strong stream of water to knock aphids off plants. This is especially effective for aphids on plants with thicker leaves.
- Introduce natural predators. Ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps are natural predators of aphids. If your aphid problem isn’t too severe, introducing these insects can help keep the aphid population under control.
2. Spider Mites: The Invisible Attackers
What They Look Like: Spider mites are tiny, red, green, or yellow arachnids. These pests are often too small to be seen with the naked eye, so look for the telltale signs of damage such as fine webbing on leaves and stems.
How to Diagnose: The most significant sign of spider mite damage is the presence of webbing, especially near the leaf axils or between leaves and stems. Additionally, you may notice stippling or yellowing of the leaves, as spider mites suck out plant sap, leaving behind damaged tissue.
Why It’s Important to Act: Spider mites reproduce quickly, and a small infestation can escalate into a larger problem in no time. These pests cause significant stress to plants, leading to weakened growth, reduced photosynthesis, and, in severe cases, plant death.
Prevention: Spider mites thrive in dry conditions. To prevent them, ensure your plants are not placed in overly dry areas and regularly mist them or use a humidifier to maintain moisture levels. Avoid keeping plants in corners where airflow is limited.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Water spray: Use a strong jet of water to physically dislodge spider mites from the plant.
- Insecticidal soap: A spray treatment can eliminate spider mites by disrupting their ability to feed.
- Predatory mites: If you prefer a natural solution, consider introducing predatory mites such as Phytoseiulus persimilis that target and consume spider mites.
3. Mealybugs: Cotton-Like Critters
What They Look Like: Mealybugs are small, soft, white insects with a waxy coating that resembles cotton. They are usually found in clusters on stems, leaf joints, or the base of leaves.
How to Diagnose: The cotton-like substance they excrete is the most noticeable sign. Mealybugs often create large colonies that, when disturbed, will scatter across the plant.
Why It’s Important to Act: Mealybugs not only weaken plants by sucking sap but also leave behind honeydew, which can encourage mold growth. If left unchecked, they can significantly stunt plant growth and cause deformities.
Prevention: Keep your plants well-spaced to avoid the spread of mealybugs, and regularly check for new growth or any signs of a waxy buildup. Quarantine new plants for a week or two to prevent pest transfer.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Rubbing alcohol: Dip a cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and apply it directly to mealybugs. This will dissolve their waxy coating and kill them.
- Insecticidal soap: Effective for treating infestations.
- Pruning: For large infestations, remove heavily infested leaves or stems to reduce the spread.
- Diatomaceous Earth: Diatomaceous earth is made from the skeletons of ancient water creatures and acts like an insecticide. Under a microscope diatomaceous earth looks like tiny shards of glass, when insects come into contact with these shards it punctures their exoskeleton and dehydrates them to death.
- Predatory mites: If you prefer a natural solution, consider introducing predatory Bugs.
4. Fungus Gnats: Tiny Flying Nuisances
What They Look Like: Fungus gnats are small, black flies that resemble mosquitoes. Their larvae are clear to yellowish, with dark heads, and they live in the moist soil of overwatered plants.
How to Diagnose: The adult gnats are easy to spot, especially if they fly around when you disturb the plant. If you notice small black flies hovering around the soil or the surface of your potting mix, you likely have a fungus gnat issue.
Why It’s Important to Act: While the adult fungus gnats are a nuisance, it’s their larvae that cause the most harm. They feed on the plant’s roots, leading to poor root development, which can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease.
Prevention: Ensure your plant’s soil has good drainage and avoid overwatering. Let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again. Fungus gnats thrive in consistently wet soil, so proper watering practices are key.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Yellow sticky traps: These are a great way to catch adult gnats.
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Herbal Plant Soap: The herbal soap coats your leaves completely like dipping your hand into a jar of honey. This washes away dirt & dust that prevents photosynthesis and slows growth. It's also amazing at un-aliving hitch hikers on your leaves or in your soil
The properties of the herbs will prevent anything from over taking your green babies and provide a protective barrier both on leaves or in soil.
- Diatomaceous Earth:Diatomaceous earth is made from the skeletons of ancient water creatures and acts like an insecticide. Under a microscope diatomaceous earth looks like tiny shards of glass, when insects come into contact with these shards it punctures their exoskeleton and dehydrates them to death.
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Soil treatment: Use an insecticidal drench or apply diatomaceous earth to the soil to dehydrate and kill the larvae.
5. Scale Insects: The Hard-Shelled Invaders
What They Look Like: Scale insects appear as small, waxy bumps that resemble part of the plant itself. They can be brown, tan, or even white, and they attach to the plant’s stems, leaves, or branches.
How to Diagnose: If you notice hard, immobile bumps on your plant, particularly on stems or leaves, it’s a sign of scale infestation. You may also notice yellowing leaves or reduced growth as a result of their sap-sucking behavior.
Why It’s Important to Act: Scale insects cause damage by draining the sap from your plant, weakening it and possibly leading to plant decline. They also secrete honeydew, which can attract ants and lead to mold growth.
Prevention: Regularly inspect plants, especially newly acquired ones, for scale. Consider isolating new plants for a week or two before introducing them to your collection to prevent pest transfer.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Insecticidal soap: This will break down the waxy coating on the scale and kill the insects.
- Rubbing alcohol: Apply alcohol to cotton swabs and wipe the scale off the plant.
- Pruning: If the infestation is severe, prune away the affected parts of the plant to prevent the spread.
6. Whiteflies: The Tiny White Menace
What They Look Like: Whiteflies are small, winged insects, usually about 1/16 inch long, with white, powdery wings that resemble tiny moths. They are commonly found on the undersides of leaves.
How to Diagnose: Whiteflies tend to fly up in a cloud when disturbed, and their feeding leaves behind a sticky residue (honeydew) that can attract ants. You may also see yellowing or curling of leaves as a result of their feeding.
Why It’s Important to Act: Whiteflies not only weaken plants by feeding on their sap, but they can also transmit plant viruses, making them particularly dangerous to both indoor and outdoor plants.
Prevention: Regularly inspect the undersides of your plant leaves, especially during the growing season. Keep your plants healthy and well-maintained to reduce the chances of attracting whiteflies.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Yellow sticky traps: These traps can attract and capture adult whiteflies.
- Insecticidal soap: Apply directly to the affected areas to eliminate whiteflies.
- Natural predators: Introducing beneficial insects, like ladybugs, can help control whitefly populations.
7. Thrips: The Tiny Ripping Machines
What They Look Like: Thrips are tiny, slender insects with fringed wings. They are usually yellow, brown, or black in color and are often difficult to spot due to their small size.
How to Diagnose: Thrips cause silvery streaks or scars on leaves, which can later turn brown or black. In severe cases, leaves may become deformed, and you might notice small black specks (their excrement).
Why It’s Important to Act: Thrips are known to cause a lot of damage to plants by puncturing cells with their needle-like mouthparts and feeding on the sap. They also spread viruses.
Prevention: Inspect plants regularly for any signs of damage, especially on new growth. Isolate new plants for a couple of weeks before adding them to your collection.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Insecticidal soap: Apply it weekly for 2–3 weeks, and if those little pests are extra stubborn, reapply every 4–7 days until they’re completely gone.
- Sprinkle diatomaceous earth on leaves and soil to deter pests.
- Predatory insects: Introducing natural enemies can reduce thrip populations.
8. Springtails: The Tiny Jumpers
What They Look Like: Springtails are tiny, wingless insects that are usually white, gray, or brown. They get their name from the small appendage under their abdomen that allows them to jump away when disturbed.
How to Diagnose: Springtails are often found in moist soil, especially if the soil is overly wet. You may notice them hopping around the surface of the soil or jumping onto leaves when disturbed.
Why It’s Important to Act: Although they don’t directly harm plants, springtails are often found in excessively moist conditions that can lead to root rot and fungal infections. They may also become a nuisance when they infest indoor plant soil.
Prevention: Avoid overwatering and ensure proper drainage in your plant pots to prevent a springtail infestation. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
How to Get Rid of Them:
- Reduce soil moisture: Let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again. If you have a hard time determining soil moisture, try our Moisture Meters.
- Diatomaceous earth: Apply diatomaceous earth to the soil to dry out springtails and prevent their spread.
Final Thoughts
The key to maintaining a healthy plant collection is vigilance. Whether you’re dealing with aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, fungus gnats, whiteflies, thrips, scale insects, or springtails, early detection and proper treatment are crucial. By staying aware of the signs and symptoms of pest infestations, you can help ensure your plants stay healthy, vibrant, and pest-free. Keep your plant jungle thriving with these expert tips on pest management, and don’t forget—prevention is always better than a cure!
Still battling the tiny terrors? No shame—some pests are just really stubborn. Reach out to us, and we’ll help you reclaim your home from these uninvited freeloaders. Your plants deserve better.