Houseplant Lighting 101: How to Find the Perfect Spot for Every Plant
If you’ve ever bought a plant, plopped it in a cute corner, and wondered why it started to droop, curl, or turn crispy—this guide is for you.
Understanding lighting for houseplants is the one of the most important factors in keeping them alive and thriving. Not all light is created equal, and not all plants want the same kind of sunshine. Once you figure out your home’s light levels and match them with the right green babes, plant care becomes way easier.
Let’s break it all down in a way that’s simple, helpful, and makes you feel like a total plant pro.
Light Types Simplified
Let’s start with the basics: what do terms like “bright indirect light” or “low light” actually mean?
Direct Sunlight
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Definition: The sun shines directly on the plant—nothing in the way.
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How to tell: Strong sunbeams, crisp shadows.
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Where: Right next to a sunny, unobstructed south-facing window (if you're in the Northern Hemisphere).
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Best for: Succulents, cacti, crotons, bird of paradise.
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Watch out: Too much can scorch sensitive leaves.
Bright Indirect Light
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Definition: Light that’s still strong but filtered—like through sheer curtains or reflected off walls.
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How to tell: Your hand casts a shadow, but it’s soft, and the light doesn’t feel harsh.
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Where: A few feet away from a sunny window, or behind a sheer curtain.
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Best for: Monsteras, pothos, calatheas, philodendrons.
Medium Light
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Definition: Not super bright, but not dark either. A nice in-between.
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Where: Near east- or west-facing windows with curtains, or back from a brighter window.
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Best for: Peace lilies, snake plants, ferns, dracaenas.
Low Light
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Definition: Minimal natural light. Think cozy corners and shaded areas.
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Where: Far from windows, in shadowy spots, or rooms with tiny/north-facing windows.
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Best for: ZZ plants, cast iron plants, low-light pothos.
Remember: Low light doesn’t mean no light. All plants need some light to survive.
Window Direction Makes a Big Difference
How your windows face affects what kind of light you get:
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South-facing: Strongest, most consistent light all day long.
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East-facing: Gentle morning sun. Bright but not harsh.
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West-facing: Stronger, warmer light in the afternoon.
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North-facing: Soft and low-light all day.
Even the best-facing window can be affected by:
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Outside obstructions like trees, fences, or buildings.
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Indoor obstructions like curtains, furniture, or even other plants.
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Window size—the bigger the window, the more usable light spreads into your space.
How Far Is Too Far?
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Right next to a window = Bright direct or bright indirect light.
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3–6 feet away = Medium light.
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More than 6 feet = Low light or less.
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Pro tip: If your plant can’t “see the sky,” it’s probably not getting enough light.
Adjusting with the Seasons
Your lighting situation changes throughout the year. Yep—just like plants in nature, your indoor plants notice the seasons too.
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In summer: The sun is higher and more intense. You may need to pull plants back or add sheer curtains to prevent burning.
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In winter: The sun sits lower, light is weaker, and days are shorter. Move your plants closer to windows, or use grow lights to make up for the drop in natural light.
Grow Light Tip: Most houseplants do well with 100–200+ foot candles of light. Low-light plants can handle as little as 50–75 foot candles. If you're unsure, consider investing in a light meter to measure your space accurately.
More In Depth Scientific look into plant lighting
What Are Foot-Candles & Why Do They Matter for Plants?
When it comes to healthy plants, light isn’t just about location—it’s about intensity. That’s where foot-candles come in. A foot-candle (ftc) is a unit that measures how much light is actually reaching a surface. One foot-candle is roughly equal to the brightness of a single candle from one foot away.
This measurement helps us understand how much light a plant is actually getting—not just how bright a room looks to the human eye. Our eyes are incredibly adaptable, which is why terms like “low light” or “bright indirect light” can be misleading. What looks bright to us might be dim for your plant.
Measuring Light: How and Why
Just like we measure distance in inches or meters, we measure light using units like:
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Foot-candles (ftc) – most relevant for plant growth
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Lux, lumens, candela – used in photography or general lighting design
Even on a cloudy winter day, natural light outdoors at noon can reach over 4,000 ftc. Compare that to:
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A north-facing window: often stays below 400 ftc
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A fluorescent-lit office: as low as 40 ftc
Despite being able to see in all these environments, your plants might not be getting enough light to thrive.
Matching Light Levels to Plant Needs
Different plants have different light requirements. Here’s a helpful breakdown based on mid-day foot-candle readings:
| Foot-Candles (ftc) | Light Level | Typical Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| 25–100 ftc | Low | Dim areas far from windows; lit mostly by overhead artificial light |
| 100–500 ftc | Medium | Bright rooms with no direct sunlight; near north-facing or shaded windows |
| 500–1000 ftc | High | Indirect sunlight near east/west windows or lightly shaded south-facing windows |
| 1000+ ftc | Direct Sunlight | Unfiltered sunlight, especially near south/southwest-facing windows |
Tip: “Right plant, right place” is golden advice—match your plant to the actual light levels in your space for best results.
How to Measure Foot-Candles at Home
The most reliable way to check your plant's light levels is with a light meter. You don’t need a pricey, scientific one—just a simple hand-held digital light meter that reads in foot-candles or lux (1 foot-candle ≈ 10.76 lux).
Phone apps can also measure light, though they’re less precise. They’re useful for tracking relative changes or estimating which corners of your space are brighter than others.
Natural vs. Artificial Light for Plants
Can plants grow under artificial light? Absolutely! If the light source provides the right spectrum and intensity, many plants don’t care if it’s from the sun or a bulb.
Here’s how common bulb types stack up:
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Incandescent bulbs: Not ideal—inefficient, hot, and short-lived
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Fluorescent lights: Good choice—cooler, more efficient, decent lifespan
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LEDs: Best overall—energy-efficient, long-lasting, and full-spectrum options available
Color temperature matters too:
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Cool white, daylight, or broad-spectrum grow lights are best
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These mimic sunlight and provide the range of light colors plants need for photosynthesis
The Science Behind It
Plants absorb light through chlorophyll, the green pigment responsible for photosynthesis. To maximize energy production, plants need a broad range of light wavelengths—not just one color. That’s why full-spectrum lights and proper light placement are so important for indoor gardens.
Understanding foot-candles gives you a more accurate, scientific way to care for your plants—beyond vague labels like "low light."
Observe, Experiment, and Be Patient
Every home is different—and so is every plant. The best way to find the sweet spot?
Research Your Plant
Watch for Signs
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Too much light: Leaves may look faded, scorched, crispy, or develop brown patches.
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Too little light: You’ll see yellowing leaves, leggy stems, or slowed growth.
Rotate + Adapt
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Rotate your plant every few weeks so all sides get even light.
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Don’t panic if you move your plant and it looks a little shocked. It can take 1–2 weeks to adjust to new environments and lighting conditions.
Final Thoughts: Match the Plant to the Light, Not the Other Way Around
It’s tempting to pick the prettiest plant and try to make it work in your space. But it’s way more rewarding (and less stressful!) to choose a plant that will naturally thrive where you want to place it.
So check your light, research your plant, and don’t be afraid to move things around. Plants are living things—they’ll show you what they need if you know how to look.